what is the best citrus insecticide to use on a lemon tree
A number of different insects and mites are common pests of citrus trees grown in Due south Carolina. Citrus pests identified by the Clemson Plant and Pest Diagnostic Clinic over the last few years accept included various armored and soft calibration insects, mites, whiteflies, leafminers, mealybugs, and aphids. The nearly problematic pests for containerized citrus grown indoors over the winter are spider mites and mealybugs.
To maintain a healthy citrus tree, such as this orange tree (Citrus x sinensis), ane must exist observant of insect pests that injure the leafage, twigs, and fruit and treat the pest trouble accordingly.
Barbara Smith, ©2017 HGIC, Clemson Extension
Cultural Control & Prevention of Citrus Pests
Maintain good citrus tree wellness to reduce the chance and severity of scale infestation, and for the copse to better tolerate insect pests already present. Citrus under drought or food stress are more susceptible to scale and other insect pest infestations, so maintain plant vigor. However, do not over-fertilize copse and shrubs, equally this can lead to increased pest bug.
Have the soil tested to make up one's mind the soil pH and the nutrient content of the soil. Fertilize and lime according to the soil test results. In the absence of a soil test, fertilize citrus copse with a slow-release, citrus tree fertilizer or a slow-release tree & shrub fertilizer (such as a 12-vi-vi) once or twice in the leap, following fertilizer label rates. In counties along the declension, such equally Horry, Beaufort, and Charleston, where loftier phosphorus levels naturally exist in the soils, use a 15-0-xv fertilizer for citrus trees. Avoid the temptation to over-fertilize trees and shrubs, as this can lead to increased pest problems. For information on how to test the soil, please see the fact canvass HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.
Water established citrus copse as needed, which is usually no more than once per week on established copse and monthly in the winter during periods of no rainfall. It is particularly important to water trees during periods of heat and drought. Established trees require ane inch of irrigation water per week during the growing flavor. Plants in containers may need h2o much more than often. Allow potting soil in containers to become slightly dry out between watering. Repot citrus plants in the spring every bit needed.
Mulch copse in the mural with a three-inch deep layer of an organic mulch (bawl, pino needles, leaves, or compost), just do not pile the mulch against the body. Apply mulch out as far as the limbs extend.
Clip out heavily infested twigs or branches and promptly dispose of pruned material. This may significantly assist to slow the infestation of scale insect pests. Also, be sure to inspect nearby shrubs and trees for these pests.
A loftier-pressure spray of water from the garden hose tin can be used to dislodge small pests, such as mites and aphids. For dislodging spider mites, direct the sprays up toward the undersides of foliage. Indoor citrus houseplants may be taken outdoors during warm weather to spray with h2o or to allow rainfall to help dislodge mites.
Mature citrus trees (more than 4 years old) generally tolerate leaf impairment past the citrus leafminer with little issue on tree growth or fruit yield. Citrus leafminer is likely to cause more damage in young citrus trees as foliar impairment reduces their vigorous growth. Even heavy infestations of citrus leafminer on young copse are unlikely to cause tree death. Do not prune leaves damaged by citrus leafminer considering undamaged areas of leaves volition keep to produce food for the tree (unless the leafminers are just in a few leaves). Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer at the times of the year when leafminer populations are high, such equally in the summer and fall, because a flush of new leaf growth may exist damaged.
Caution: If citrus trees are growing in the backyard, go along broadleaf weed killers away, as these can injure or stress trees. Tree roots will extend outward under the turfgrass and can take up these herbicides. Harmful herbicide products include weed & feed fertilizers applied on nearby lawns.
Scale Insect Pests
The California cherry-red scale is an armored scale with a hard, reddish-brown roofing over the adults. It can infest all parts of the plants.
Dennis Navea, ControlBest, Bugwood.org
California red calibration (Aonidiella aurantii) is an armored scale pest of citrus and difficult to control with insecticides. The adult female person scale infests the fruit, stems, and leaves, and appears as ⅟ten-inch, reddish-dark-brown spots or scabs on the found. The female gives nascency to 100 to 150 xanthous-colored immatures, chosen crawlers, which disperse by crawling to observe a identify to settle down and suck nutrients from the plant parts. These crawlers form difficult coverings over their bodies and become immobile adults.
Severe infestations crusade leafage yellowing and drop, dieback of twigs and limbs, and occasionally death of the tree. Citrus tree damage is virtually probable to occur in tardily summer and early autumn when populations of this calibration are highest, and moisture stress on the tree is greatest. Naturally occurring parasitic insects may aid control some of the scales in outdoor settings.
Citrus snow scale infests limbs and twigs initially, simply with a severe infestation, this calibration will colonize the foliage.
Fundamental Science Laboratory, Harpenden, British Crown, Bugwood.org
Citrus snow scale (Unaspis citri) is an armored scale that is a sporadic pest and host specific on citrus trees. Heavy infestations can near completely cover the bark and larger limbs and give a white, snowy advent. The inconspicuous, immobile female scales are brownish-royal, oyster-beat out shaped, and ⅟sixteen– to ⅟xi-inch long pests. The snow-white, winged males give the descriptive name to this scale species. Crawlers (immatures) are very small, calorie-free orange to ruby and easily spread to other plants and additional branches. Some or all life stages of the scale are found throughout the yr (eggs, crawlers, nymphs, and adults). In that location are multiple generations of this calibration during the growing season.
With infestation, citrus tree volition have decreased vigor, reduced fruit production, and partial confusion. Heavy infestations can cause limb and branch dieback, big cracks to grade in the bawl, and tin can eventually pb to the death of the tree. Typically, leaves and fruit are not infested until scale populations become severe. Natural parasitoids are unable to go on this scale pest under control.
Florida carmine scale initially infests citrus fruit and is one of the near damaging scale pests of citrus.
Pedro Torrent Chocarro, Bugwood.org
Florida blood-red scale (Chrysomphalus aonidum) is an armored scale with circular armor made upwards of 3 concentric rings. They are nighttime reddish-chocolate-brown, have a conspicuous, lite brown center, and the size is almost ⅟12-inch in bore. This scale occurs on a wide range of hosts, such equally citrus, Aspidistra, and Dracaena, and like most armored scales does non produce honeydew (the sugary waste material that drips from the insects). There may be several generations per year. The immatures (crawlers) are bright lemon yellowish. They infest fruit outset, and then in late summer and early autumn, they feed on the foliage.
Symptoms consist of yellow spots on both the leaves and fruit. If just a few leaves are infested with scales, trim off and dispose of the infested foliage. If the citrus is a landscape plant, sprays are needed to stop the spread of this pest. Heavy infestation may cause severe defoliation. This scale pest is one of the most serious pests of citrus. There are several wasp parasites, which aid in the command of this scale. Additionally, ladybird beetles will feed on the calibration crawlers.
Regal scale is besides a serious pest of citrus and can infest all parts of the citrus trees. D.R. Miller, Usa National Collection of Scale Insects Photographs, USDA ARS, Bugwood.org
Purple calibration (Lepidosaphes beckii) is an armored calibration pest primarily of citrus copse. The adult female person scales are small, elongate, ⅟12– to ⅟viii-inch long, imperial to dark brownish, and slightly curved. The adult male scales are smaller. The mobile immatures are very pocket-sized and white, and at that place may be two generations per year. This insect pest prefers the shadier and more than protected areas of the tree, so the higher populations may exist found toward the center of the tree. The dense canopy of foliage protects them from parasites.
This scale infests the citrus foliage, fruit, and stems, and tin can cause leafage yellowing and drop, spotting and deformity of fruit, shoot malformation, and with heavy infestations, plant decease can occur. Symptoms include green spots on fruit that do not color correctly and yellow spots on foliage. A heavy infestation may crusade defoliation. Parasitic wasps proceed purple scale in check in Florida, but these biological controls may not nonetheless exist present in South Carolina.
Florida wax scale (Ceroplases floridensis) are pocket-size brownish-purple insects that are covered with a dirty-white waxy covering. They are soft scales that commonly infest citrus, hemlock, azalea, blueberry, camellia, Chinese elm, fig, Chinese holly, yaupon holly, jasmine, mulberry, pear, persimmon, plum quince and other plants. Crawlers (the immatures) are typically pink and are nowadays during late jump or early summer. They migrate to and feed on the underside of foliage for virtually a month, at which time the female crawlers movement to twigs and small branches to go on feeding.
Florida wax scale is a soft calibration of citrus and many ornamentals. This calibration produces honeydew, which drips onto surrounding foliage. The honeydew is colonized by nighttime-colored sooty mold and results in foliage becoming blackened.
Chazz Hesselein, Alabama Cooperative Extension System, Bugwood.org
When a scale infestation is heavy, black sooty mold can grow on the clear, sweet, gummy honeydew (the sugary waste product resulting from scale feeding on plant sap) that drips onto nearby foliage. Severe infestations may kill branches. If at that place is no noticeable blackening of the leaves from sooty mold, so the wax calibration infestation is probably not severe plenty to kill branches. Typically, natural enemies, such as parasitic wasps, keep Florida wax scale nether control.
Cottony absorber scale (Icerya purchase) tin can be more than a nuisance on shrubs and trees. Host plants include citrus, apple, Nandina, Boston ivy, boxwood, cypress, hackberry, locust, maple, oaks, peaches and plums, pecan, pears, pine, Pittosporum, pomegranate, quince, rose, Verbena, walnut, willow, and other woody ornamentals.
Adult female calibration insects have ruby-brown bodies with blackness legs and antennae. However, the near distinguishing characteristic of this scale is the large, elongated and grooved, cottony-white egg sac. The egg sac (⅜- to ⅝-inch in length) becomes two to 2½ times as long as the body of the female, and there may be hundreds of eggs in each egg sac. Eggs in the egg sac hatch into the 6-legged "crawler" stage, which are bright red with black legs. They and then motility onto larger twigs and branches, feed, and develop through several stages before becoming adults. Populations may increase very quickly during the dryer months of summer.
Cottony cushion calibration is another soft scale of citrus. Behind the female scale is a grooved, white egg sac containing hundreds of calibration eggs.
Sonya Broughton, Dept. of Agriculture & Food, Western Australia, Bugwood.org
Cottony cushion scale infestations can generally cause older trees to have reduced vigor, premature leaf drop, or twig death, but younger trees can be severely stunted or killed. Similar to the Florida wax scale, these soft scale insects debilitate plants past sucking out sap (phloem), and then excrete honeydew, which coats infested plants. Dark fungi called sooty molds abound in the honeydew. Heavily infested trees go chlorotic and darkened by the mold. During periods of stress, leaves and fruit may drop prematurely, and plants may dice.
Chemical Control of Scales: The woman scales are difficult to control with regular contact insecticides because of their hard, waxy covering. However, sprays of horticultural oil, an first-class, proven product for calibration command, kill all stages of scales insects that are present at the time of application. Horticultural oil is condom to apply and is an particularly good choice for sensitive areas, such as where people are present soon afterward handling. Due to its curt residual, oil sprays help to conserve beneficial insect species. Horticultural oil sprays control both armored and soft scales.
Apply a horticultural oil spray before new growth begins in belatedly winter or early leap and when the temperatures are above 45 °F. These oils work by smothering overwintering adult female person scales, immatures (crawlers), and their eggs. They offering the all-time control when practical during this dormant season. Oil sprays impale by suffocation. Spray the trunk and limbs with 2% horticultural oil solution to the betoken of run-off. Make a ii% solution by mixing five tablespoons of horticultural oil per gallon of water.
Horticultural oil sprays can be applied any fourth dimension to control scales whatsoever time the temperatures are between 45 and 85 ºF. If scale problems are severe, jump and fall applications may be needed. Boosted spray applications may be required when new leaves commencement to expand in the spring. Make two or more bound applications as necessary at three- to iv-week intervals. These springtime sprays provide control of the immatures (crawlers) that hatch afterward new foliage appears. Spray the copse thoroughly until the oil spray drips or "runs off" from the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, twigs, branches, and the torso.
When necessary, a 1 or 2% mixture of horticultural oil tin can be applied again to the foliage during the growing flavour. For tender new growth, apply a 1% mixture spray (two½ tablespoons per gallon of water). On mature foliage, apply a 2% mixture spray (v tablespoons of oil per gallon of h2o). Do not spray in direct sunlight or if rainfall is expected within 24 hours. To lessen the chance of foliar injury and slow the drying time of the oil sprays, apply horticultural oils belatedly in the mean solar day.
If citrus fruit are present on the plants, employ horticultural oil no stronger than 3 tablespoons per gallon of water. Milkshake the sprayer oft to keep the oil and water mixed. Examples of horticultural oil products are in Table one.
Canola oil sprays labeled for horticultural use can also be used to reduce the number of calibration insect pests by suffocating all growth stages like the horticultural oil sprays do. Examples of available brands are in Table i.
In general, using least toxic insecticides, like horticultural oil and canola oil, will foreclose damage to benign insects. When general contact insecticides are used, they volition impale the naturally occurring, benign enemies of scale insects. The general contact insecticides will only impale the crawler stage (immatures) of the calibration insect because they cannot penetrate the difficult waxy covering over the adults. Therefore, contact insecticides should only be practical during the growing season when scale crawlers are present. General contact insecticides registered for insect control on citrus include malathion. For examples of brands containing malathion, delight come across Table 1.
Mites
Citrus red mite is a absurd season citrus pest, and then populations are higher during the spring and autumn.
Jim Baker, Northward Carolina State University, Bugwood.org
Citrus ruddy mite (Panonychus citri) is more agile on new growth of citrus plants, especially in the late leap and early on fall. Populations will also be higher at these times of year because in the summer, the higher temperatures and humidity tend to reduce these cool season mite populations. Adult female person citrus scarlet mites are oval, globular-shaped and characteristically ruby-red. These mites feed on leaves, fruit, and greenish twigs of all citrus varieties. Leaf infestations are typically college than those on the fruit. Citrus red mite produces little or no webbing on the plant.
The mite has piercing-sucking mouthparts, which information technology inserts into found tissue. Injury resulting from this blazon of feeding appears as lite-colored, scratched, or bleached areas, known as stippling. Stippling gives leaves and fruit a grayish or silvery appearance. Citrus red mites feeding and harsh weather tin can result in heavy leaf drib, twig dieback, and death of large limbs. Citrus ruddy mite is a major pest of citrus worldwide causing considerable damage on lemon and grapefruit, and to a lesser extent on orange and tangerine. Other host plants include roses and pears.
Two-spotted spider mite is a summertime pest of citrus, but this mite volition infest containerized citrus held indoors during the winter.
Sonya Broughton, Dept. of Agriculture & Food, Western Commonwealth of australia, Bugwood.org
Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) infestations normally start on the lower leaf surface. As the spider mite population grows, they frequently movement to the upper leaf surface to feed. Citrus plants growing next to very warm surfaces, such as brick, stone, or concrete structures are more apt to become infested with two-spotted spider mites considering the plants volition be hotter and thus more stressed. Dissimilar the citrus red mite that prefers libation temperatures, two-lined spider mites are more than of a pest during the warmer summer months. Even so, they can become a year-round pest when containerized citrus plants are brought indoors during the winter.
Generally, a fine flecking or stippling is observed as the mites feed on the leafage. The mesophyll layer (the center layer) of the leaf collapses and the infested area becomes pale or grayish. A sure sign of a heavy spider mite infestation is large amounts of webbing found around the last ends of upright branches. A severe infestation may also cause defoliation. 2-spotted spider mites are also pests of many landscape shrubs and flowers.
When attempting to make a positive identification, spider mites can be detected by viewing the underside of leaves using a 10x or greater lens. Another detection method is to shake branches over a white piece of paper. Dislodged spider mites announced as picayune "specks" approximately the size of a period at the finish of this sentence.
Chemic Command of Mites: Horticultural oil is condom to employ and is an especially good choice for sensitive areas, such every bit where people are present soon afterwards treatment. Because of the short balance, oil sprays help to conserve benign insect species. Horticultural oil sprays will control both citrus reddish mites and two-spotted spider mites.
Apply a horticultural oil spray before new growth begins in the belatedly winter or early on spring and when the temperature is higher up 45 °F. These oils work by smothering the overwintering mites and reduce populations earlier they can build up in the spring. These sprays kill past suffocation. Spray the trunk and limbs with 2% horticultural oil solution to the point of run-off. Make a 2% solution with five tablespoons of horticultural oil per gallon of h2o.
Horticultural oil sprays can be applied any fourth dimension when temperatures are betwixt 45 and 85 ºF. If the citrus cherry-red mite problem is serious, both spring and autumn applications may be necessary. Apply spray applications when new leaves start to expand in the bound. Use a ane% oil spray (2½ tablespoons oil per gallon of water). Brand ii or more applications every bit necessary at three- to 4-week intervals. Spray the plants thoroughly until the mixture drips or "runs off" from the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, twigs, branches, and the body. Later in the growing season, when the temperatures go warmer, two-spotted spider mite populations may increase rapidly.
When necessary, employ a two% mixture of horticultural oil spray to the mature foliage during the growing season (5 tablespoons of oil per gallon of h2o). Do not spray in direct sunlight, or if rainfall is expected within 24 hours. To lessen whatever take a chance of foliar injury and tiresome the drying fourth dimension of the oil sprays, utilise horticultural oil sprays late in the day.
Citrus grown as houseplants infested with two-spotted spider mites may be taken outdoors during mild temperatures for spray applications, and so returned indoors when dry out. Exercise not spray citrus that are in bloom. If citrus fruit are present on the plants, employ horticultural oil sprays that are no stronger than three tablespoons per gallon of water. Shake the sprayer often to be sure the mixture does not split. For examples of horticultural oils, please see Table 1.
Canola oil sprays tin also be applied to reduce the number of citrus cerise mites and ii-spotted spider mites and is used similar a horticultural oil spray. For examples of canola oil products, please meet Table 1.
Insecticidal soap sprays are very constructive against various mites and are about effective if applied when environmental weather promote slow drying (i.e., early morning and early on evening). Echo applications in 5 days if more spider mites are found. Thorough coverage on the undersides of the leaves and new growth to the betoken of run-off is especially of import when using lather sprays. Do not use insecticidal lather sprays when the citrus is in bloom. Follow label directions for mixing. For examples of insecticidal soap products, please see Tabular array one.
Whiteflies, Leafminers, Mealybugs, & Aphids
Citrus whitefly feed primarily the lower leafage surface of foliage. Equally they suck sap, the sugary waste product, called honeydew, is produced and drips onto surrounding foliage. Soon afterward, the honeydew is colonized by the night-colored sooty mold.
Lyle Osculation, University of Florida, Bugwood.org
Citrus whiteflies (Dialeurodes citri) accept piercing-sucking mouthparts with which they puncture the leaf and suck the constitute juices. The top sides of leaves on infested plants get pale or spotted due to these insects feeding on the undersides of the leaves. Whiteflies excrete large amounts of honeydew, a liquid sugary waste material, which drips onto leaf and provides an first-class medium for the growth of a black fungus called sooty mold. Besides being unattractive, sooty mold may interfere with photosynthesis and retard the growth of the plant. Sooty mold unremarkably weathers away following control of the insect infestation.
Ants feed on the sugary honeydew excreted past piercing-sucking insects, such as whiteflies, aphids, and mealybugs. When ants are seen on citrus plants, the leafage should be examined closely for the presence of these insects Extensive feeding may crusade foliage driblet.
Citrus whiteflies can be detected by shaking a branch and watching for the pocket-size white adults as they fly away. Other whitefly species also may feed on citrus plants.
The citrus whitefly nymph is small-scale and flat, and feeds on the lower leaf surface of citrus leafage, as does the adult.
Florida Division of Plant Industry, Florida Dept. of Agronomics & Consumer Services, Bugwood.org
Citrus leafminer (Phyllocnistis citrella) is a very small-scale, calorie-free-colored moth that is less than ⅛-inch long. Female person moths are attracted to the new delicious foliage on citrus trees and lay their eggs singly on the underside of leaves, particularly forth the mid-vein. Eggs hatch about 4 to 5 days afterwards being laid. Newly hatched citrus leafminer larvae brainstorm feeding immediately in shallow, meandering mines or tunnels inside young leaves. The larvae mine the lower or upper surface of the leaves causing them to curlicue and look distorted. The citrus leafminer most ordinarily feeds on most species of citrus, also as closely related plants, such as kumquat and calamondin.
New leaves are the sites for egg laying by the citrus leafminer adult. The eggs hatch, and the immatures feed every bit they mine inside these immature, tender leaves. As the leaves aggrandize, they become distorted.
Joey Williamson, ©2017 HGIC, Clemson Extension
Citrus mealybug (Planococcus citri) female and nymphs (immatures) are ⅛-inch or smaller. They are soft, flat, oval, and wingless insects with long tails and covered with white fluffy wax. Male insects are tiny and gnat-like with 1 pair of wings. Citrus mealybugs infest a wide variety of greenhouse, nursery, and landscape plants. They typically feed on above ground portions of plants at shoot crotches. If numerous, they may be plant feeding on stems, foliage, and flowers.
Citrus mealybug is a pest of citrus, besides equally many landscape and greenhouse plants. They primarily feed on foliage and tender stems.
J.A. Davidson, University of Maryland, College Park, Bugwood.org
Citrus mealybugs feed on plants from 27 plant families, including citrus, apple, English ivy, Ficus, Gardenia, Jasmine, Oleander, persimmon, Pittosporum, Canna, and Rhododendron. Other species of mealybugs may besides infest citrus.
Citrus mealybug damage hosts by sucking out found sap causing wilt, distorted or stunted growth, yellowed (chlorotic) leaves, premature leaf drib, and occasionally death. They also secrete an unattractive cottony wax. Like other piercing-sucking insects to a higher place, mealybugs excrete large amounts of honeydew. This sugary waste becomes colonized by sooty mold causing leaves to look dark and unsightly. Mealybugs have many naturally occurring parasites and predators.
Blackness citrus aphid (Toxoptera aurantii) is some other common insect pest of citrus. This aphid also infests Camellia, Ixora, saccharide maple, Pittosporum, crape myrtle, and Elaeagnus in the Southern United States.
These brown citrus aphids are very similar in appearance to the black citrus aphid, which feeds on flowers buds and new foliage of citrus.
Florida Partition of Plant Industry, Florida Dept. of Agriculture & Consumer Services, Bugwood.org
Blackness citrus aphid is nigh abundant in early on leap and typically congregates on flower buds. They volition also feed on immature developing leaf resulting in leaf cupping, crimper, and twisting. As with all aphid feeding, the production of honeydew results in the growth of the blackness sooty mold on leaves. Other species of aphids also feed on citrus. Aphids are oft kept under control by the many natural predators and parasites.
Chemical Control of Whiteflies, Leafminers, Mealybugs, & Aphids: Horticultural oil sprays will control whiteflies, mealybugs, and aphids, only not leafminers. On citrus trees, apply horticultural oil sprays when pests are present, and when temperatures are betwixt 45 and 85 ºF. Withal, they will not work preventatively, as they kill past suffocation as the oil sprays cover the pest. Spray the trunk, limbs, and mature foliage with two% horticultural oil solution to the point of run-off. Make a 2% solution by adding v tablespoons of horticultural oil per gallon of water.
If pests are present during spring as new, tender growth appears, apply a i% mixture spray (2½ tablespoons oil per gallon of h2o). Utilize two more spring applications equally necessary at iii- to iv-week intervals. Spray the plants thoroughly, so that the oil mixture drips or "runs off" from the upper and lower surfaces of leaves, twigs, branches, and the trunk. Do not spray in direct sunlight, or if rainfall is expected within the next 24 hours. To lessen any chance of foliar injury and slow the drying fourth dimension of the oil sprays, apply horticultural oils late in the day.
Citrus grown as houseplants that are infested with whiteflies, mealybugs, or aphids can be taken outdoors during balmy temperatures for spray applications, and so returned indoors after they are dry. Do not spray citrus trees that are in flower.
If citrus fruit are present on the plants, apply horticultural oil mixtures no stronger than 3 tablespoons per gallon of water. Shake the sprayer frequently to be certain the oil and h2o mixture practise not split. For examples of horticultural oil products, please see Tabular array 1.
Canola oil sprays tin also exist used to reduce the number of whiteflies, mealybugs, and aphids. For examples of canola oil products, please see Table ane.
Insecticidal soap sprays are also very effective against whiteflies, mealybugs, and aphids. These sprays work ameliorate if practical when environmental weather condition promote slow drying (i.e., early forenoon and early evening). Repeat spray applications in five days if necessary. Thorough coverage on the undersides of the leaves and new growth to the point of run-off is especially important when using lather sprays. Do non use insecticidal soap sprays when the citrus is in blossom.
Mealybugs are more apt to be a trouble with indoor citrus trees. Containerized citrus plants can exist moved outside during mild weather condition to spray them with an insecticidal lather. Follow label directions for mixing and spray trees to the betoken of run off. For examples of insecticidal lather products, please run into Tabular array 1.
Spinosad is a natural insecticide that has the ability to penetrate the foliage (i.due east., it is a foliar systemic) and will control citrus leafminer larvae within the leaves. For examples of products containing Spinosad, please see Tabular array 1.
Tabular array ane. Insecticides for Citrus Insect Pest Control in the Home Landscape.
| Pesticide Active Ingredient | Brand Names & Products |
| Horticultural oili & canola oil1 | Bonide All Seasons Spray Oil Concentrate Ferti-lome Horticultural Oil Spray Concentrate Monterey Horticultural Oil Concentrate Southern Ag ParaFine Horticultural Oil Concentrate Superlative Year Round Spray Oil Concentrate Espoma Earth-tone Horticultural Oil Concentrate (canola); & RTSii |
| Insecticidal soapiii | Bonide Insecticidal Soap Concentrate Espoma Earth-tone Insecticidal Soap Concentrate Natural Guard Insecticidal Soap Concentrate Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap Concentrate II Garden Prophylactic Insecticidal Soap Insect Killer Concentrate |
| Malathion | Bonide Malathion Insect Control 50% Concentrate Ortho Max Malathion Insect Spray Concentrate Spectracide Malathion Insect Spray Concentrate Southern Ag Malathion 50% EC Southern Ag Malathion – Oil Citrus & Ornamental Spray Concentrate |
| Spinosad | Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater Concentrate Bonide Captain Jack'southward Dead Problems Mash Concentrate; & RTS2 Ferti-lome Borer, Bagworm & Leafminer Spray Concentrate Monterey Garden Insect Spray Concentrate Natural Guard Spinosad Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar, & Chewing Insect Command Concentrate; & RTS2 Southern Ag Conserve Naturalyte Insect Command Concentrate |
| |
If this document didn't respond your questions, please contact HGIC at hgic@clemson.edu or ane-888-656-9988.
Source: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/citrus-insects-related-pests/
0 Response to "what is the best citrus insecticide to use on a lemon tree"
Post a Comment